Repair to Brown and Blue Stained Glass Lamp

My customer found this sturdy lamp at an antique store.  He loved the colors and knew it would look perfect in his vacation home. He brought it to me to repair several cracks along the lower edge.  Here's how I repaired it .. (This is around the 80th lamp I've repaired).

“Before” photo of lamp on light box with matching replacement glass. Five pieces in a row, starting with the corner, are cracked.

Discovered this clear tape on the cracked pieces which I removed prior to the repairs.

 

First piece out was the blue oval.  I scored it with the purple tool which is an oil-filled pistol grip glass cutter.  Then I used the metal end of it to crack out the remainder of the glass.

Here I’ve removed the blue oval as well as the brown crescent above it. I’ve also cleared off the old solder and foil from the upper border.

Now I’ve traced a template from which to cut the new pieces of glass.

Since there are two pieces with a single cut between them, I used double-bladed stained glass pattern shears to cut them.  They leave a narrow strip of paper between the patterns.  This allows room for the copper foil which will follow later.

Brown crescent traced and marked so that I know which side of the glass faces “in”.

I usually cut glass by hand but with deep curves like this, I will use my electric ring saw as shown.

As each piece of glass is cut, I bring it to the grinder to smooth the edges.  This makes the glass safe to handle and helps the copper foil to adhere.

Now I’ve determined that the “questionable half circle” does in fact, need replacement as does the one adjacent to it.  I’m cracking out the glass here.

With the row of cracked pieces removed, I’m adding new 7/32” copper foil to the border where the replacement pieces will be soldered.

Now I have the brown crescent and the blue oval in place and I’ve prepared the patterns for the two brown half circles.

Tracing patterns for the brown quarter circles.

Brown quarter circles cut.

 

Applying copper foil evenly to the edges of each piece of ground glass.

Using a “fid” or flat plastic wand to burnish the foil onto the glass.

 

Now that the rest of the row is ready, I’m removing the glass from the corner.  I left this in place for stability throughout the process.

Here I’m using a hot soldering iron to melt out the old foil and solder.

 

Now I’ve cut, ground, and foiled all five pieces of replacement glass.  I supported the back of the lamp with a large piece of foam, and I’ve secured the glass pieces with push pins as shown. This will keep all pieces in place as I solder.

Applying green liquid flux to the foil.  This is a catalyst which helps the solder to flow freely.

 

 

Now I’ve soldered all the pieces and I’m applying black patina.  This liquid instantly turns the solder black. The area receives a thorough cleaning with a neutralizing spray after both the fluxing and the patina-ing process.

I expected to find a length of wire along the bottom edge of the lamp. Most lamps from this era added the wire for extra strength and stability.  Since you lamp didn’t have the wire, I decided to add it for a stronger repair.

Now the wire is in place on the border and all the pieces are soldered on the front of the lamp as well as the inside.

Here’s an “after” view, with the lamp on the light box, being lit from below.

Another view after the repair.  Thank so much Mike, for bringing this lamp to me for repair.  May you and your family enjoy it for many years at your vacation home!

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Repair to small Amber and Red Stained Glass Lamp

This lamp came to me from a father who wanted it repair it as a gift for his daughter's first apartment.  It had one cracked panel and a bent border.  Here's how I went about the repair ..


“Before” photo showing the cracked piece and the bent zinc channel border.

Another "before" view

Here I've found a match for the glass in my inventory.

Using the light box to test for luminosity to confirm the match.

Using needle nosed pliers to pull out loose cracked glass.

Using an oil-filled pistol grip glass cutter to hashtag score the glass to get it to crack for removal.  After I score it, I tap repeatedly on the area using the brass end of the cutter (not shown).

Now all of the glass has been removed.  Now I’m using the pliers to tug off the old foil and solder.

For the areas of solder and foil which can’t readily be tugged off, I’m using a hot soldering iron to melt it off.

Now I’ve removed the bent channel border and cleaned off the old solder and foil.

Here I’m applying adhesive 7/32” copper foil to the borders to prepare for the replacement glass.

Next, I make a template of the opening.

Using the template, I trace the border onto the replacement glass.

Then I use the oil filled pistol grip cutter to score the glass along the line. (In actual practice, my left hand would be applying pressure to the green ruler.  It’s now holding the camera, however!)

After I make the “score” along the line, I tap repeatedly, front and back, along the line.  That helps to loosen and split the glass. Then I bring it to the electric grinder as shown.  I grind the edges of the replacement piece to make it safe to handle, and to make the copper foil adhere better.

Before foiling, I make sure the piece is a good fit.  I made a couple of adjustments by grinding it down a bit.

When I’m satisfied that its a good fit, I apply copper foil to the edges of the glass.  Here I”m using a “fid” or flat plastic wand to burnish the foil onto the glass.  This prevents any chemicals from getting underneath.

I’ve taped the piece inside the shade and I’m now applying green liquid “flux” to the foil.  This is a catalyst which enables the solder to flow freely.

At this point, I’ve soldered the replacement piece in place, on both the inside and outside of the shade.  I custom-cut a length of zinc “channel” or metal border.  Here I’m pressing it in place onto the edge of the shade.

Once the new “channel” is in place, I locked it in securely by applying solder to the lead lines and to the corners of the lamp.

After the soldering is completed, I use a neutralizing spray to remove the flux.  Then I use a metal acid brush to apply the black “patina”. This instantly turns the solder black.  After its allowed to set, I clean it again using the same neutralizing spray.

And here is the lamp, fully repaired.  After I clean it with the spray, I applied “stained glass finishing polish” which is a light wax.  It serves to protect the patina and give the glass a nice shine.

Another “repaired” view, this one on the light box to show how well the glass matches. Thank you Steve, for finding me and asking me to repair this for you, it was a pleasure!

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!