Repairs to Stained Glass Rainbow Panel

This rainbow design stained glass panel was damaged when it fell over.  My customer wanted this to be repaired as a gift for his daughter.  See how I repaired it ..

Cracks can be seen in the blue sky, the center sun, and in the orange, red and amber rainbow.  I planned to repair it while it was still in the frame, but it decided to pop out of it.  So, I did the repair without the frame, and my husband replaced it afterwards.

I decided to begin by repairing the round sun.  Here I'm using the brass end of my glass cutter to smash up the glass in that space.

Now all the glass is removed and I'm using needle-nose pliers to tug off the old solder and foil.  For the parts I can't get off with the pliers, I melt off with a hot soldering iron.  The surface needs to be cleaned of all old solder, foil and adhesive to prepare for the replacement piece.

 

Here I'm tracing the opening onto a piece of a Manila folder.  This will serve as my template for cutting the replacement glass.

After measuring the diameter of the circle, I used a glass circle cutter to get it the exact size.

 

After the circle is "scored", I scored additional lines along the sides of the circle.  Then I used these blue "running pliers" to snap off the sides of the circle.  Then I used another tool called "groziers" to nip off the remaining glass around the circle.

After the glass is cut as closely as possible, I bring it to my electric grinder.  Grinding the edges of the glass makes it safe to handle and allows the copper foil to adhere.

Now the circle is cut and ground. Now I'm pressing the copper foil down onto the sides of the circle.  After its pressed down, I burnish the foil with a flat plastic wand called a "fid".  Then I apply new copper foil to the inner border of the circle.  Then I apply liquid "flux" to the foil.  This is a catalyst that enables the solder to flow freely.  Then I solder the front and the back and clean the area thoroughly.

Now the new sun is in place.  I used the same process to repair the cracked piece of blue that was to the left of the sun.

Now I'm moving onto the rainbow.  Here I'm tugging off the old solder and foil.

 

I wanted to keep as much of the original glass in place as possible.  Therefore I only repaired what was necessary and what worked with the design.  Here the outer orange rainbow has been replaced.  I've removed sections of the red and the amber to prepare for their replacement.

Following the same process, I made templates for the missing pieces, cut the glass, ground the edges, foiled them and applied liquid flux to prepare for soldering.  After I thoroughly cleaned the panel, I waxed and buffed both sides.  Stained glass looks very different in different lighting.  Here is a view of the finished panel on top of a large light box.

And here it is against a white wall.  It's still outside the frame here.

And here it is against the same wall, with light on it, and the frame secured back on.  (Note that you can see the thin hanging wire in the upper right.  I suggested that my customer replace this with a stronger wire).  Thank you so much, Rich, it was a pleasure meeting you.  I hope your daughter loved her gift!

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

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Repairs to Stained Glass Panel

This stained glass panel was brought to me by the same customer who created the glue chip glass and bevel panel posted previously.  This panel had a few cracks in it, and needed hanging hooks installed.  Here's the process ..


This abstract panel has cracks to three pieces.  They're marked by the round colored stickers.

I began the repair by scoring and then cracking out the glass in the yellow piece as shown.  Here I'm tapping the scored piece with the metal end of a glass cutter, in order to loosen the glass.

All of the glass is removed.  Now I'm using needle nose pliers to tug off the old solder and copper foil.

The copper foil and solder have been removed.  Now I'm burnishing new copper foil which I just placed along the border of the open area.

Now I'm tracing around the border onto a piece of Manila folder which will serve as my template for the replacement piece of yellow glass.

The new yellow glass is in place.  With this piece of glass removed, I have access to the cracked red border piece.  Therefore I decided not to solder it in place until the red piece is replaced.  Here I'm preparing the template for the new red piece.

Here I've moved aside the yellow piece and the red piece is ready for foiling.

Now the red border piece and the yellow piece are both foiled.  I'm applying liquid flux to the copper foil.  This chemical enables the solder to flow freely over the foil.

Now the yellow and red replacement pieces have been soldered in place on the front and the back of the panel.

Note that there is glass missing in the reddish-white strip beside the flower-like design in the center.  I sent off that chip in hopes of finding a good match for it.  However, there was nothing available.  Therefore, after consulting with my customer, I suggested replacing both panels beside the flower with the light blue glass which appears on the border.  I thought it would be a nice tie-in and bring more cohesiveness to the design.  She agreed, so I went ahead.

Here's a blue panel being run through the electric grinder.

Now I've replaced both sides of the flower with a nice strip of blue which matches the borders.

One of the final steps is to clean off the liquid flux, let it dry, and then apply the black patina as shown here.  Its a blue liquid which makes the solder turn black instantly.

Using a product called Kwik-Clean, I'm washing off the excess patina after giving it some time to set.

Now I'm moving on to creating and installing hooks as requested by my customer.  Since this is a heavy panel, I'm using 12 gauge wire which I cut into short lengths.  I wrapped them around a pen as shown, and crimped the ends together using the needle nose pliers.

Then I used a steel brush to scrub off the old patina from the corner needed a hook which I marked with blue tape.  Then I applied some liquid flux onto the scrubbed area.

I added some hot solder to the area.  When it cooled off, I used the needle nose pliers to hold the new hook in place.  Then I heated up the hook until it sank into the pool of solder, creating a very strong and permanent bond to the frame.  I repeated this process on the other side.

And here is the repaired panel, with new hooks for hanging.

Another view, on top of a light box.  Thank you Jane and John, for bringing this panel to me also!  I'm pleased that I was able to put it back in service so you can enjoy it for years to come.

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Glue Chip Glass panel Repair

This small panel was made by my customer about 25 years ago.  It was her first piece which I thought was very impressive!  She learned to work with bevels and cut curved and straight lines, and also framed the piece.  Since she no longer has her tools, she asked me to repair it for her.  Here's how I went about it ..

Here is the panel, showing cracks in the two pieces on the right side. The glass is called Glue Chip and is very popular.  It's also known as Jack Frost glass and is commonly used with bevels

Close up.  Notice how thin the chain is.  This was the reason for the damage.  The chain is too thin for the piece, and it eventually gave way.

Here I'm "scoring" one of the cracked pieces by cross-hatching it with a glass cutter as shown.

Now I'm using the metal back of the glass cutter to smash through the glass and remove all of it.

I've removed the old glass and the solder and foil that was around it.  Now I'm using a piece of Manila folder to trace the inner outline.  This will be used for the pattern.

The pattern is a perfect fit.

 I've traced the pattern onto a new piece of glass and I've scored a straight line.  Here I'm tapping on the glass to "loosen" it so that it will split.

The glass has been cut in more detail by hand, using the glass cutter.  Then I ground the edges using the electric grinder.  Here I'm applying pressure-sensitive 7/32" silver back copper foil to the edges.  I'm using silver back because the solder will remain silver.  Since the glass is clear, the inside of the foil will be visible.  By matching the interior color of the foil to the color of the solder (black or silver), it becomes essentially invisible.  

Now the new piece is in place.  I've shored it up underneath with a few squares of cardboard.  Its important that the new piece of glass be soldered in on the same plane as the rest of the piece.

The first piece is repaired and soldered in place.  Now I'm scoring the second cracked piece, to prepare for its removal.  Then I'll repeat the same process.

And here it is, fully repaired.  I removed the thin chain and suggested a heavier chain to prevent breakage in the future.

Here's another view which shows the nice textures of the glass.  Thank you Jane, for entrusting me with your first stained glass project.

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Frank Lloyd Wright Style Lamp Repair

This beautiful lamp may look familiar.  I repaired it once before, in late August of 2013 when it accidentally fell.  It took another tumble recently and its owner called me back again.  I was pleased to be able to again restore it as new.  To see the first time it was repaired, click here.  Otherwise, here's the process for the second time around ..

This time, the lamp took a far worse hit and sustained much more damaged.  Three sides sustained several cracks each.  Here's one side ..

And a view from the top.

And another view showing a smashed corner.

I decided to start on the corner, since this is an anchor point and would strengthen the lamp right away.  I've already made a template of the space and I've traced three new corner pieces.

Now I'm grinding the edges of one of the pieces.

Here's a spot where I'll be adding a new corner.  I've cleaned off the old solder and foil.  I've added new foil to the border.

Here is one of the three corners, in place and ready for application of liquid flux, followed by soldering.

Moving along to the side, I've made a paper pattern for this cracked piece.

Here's a view of the new corner piece in place surrounded by cracked pieces.

Another view, this time showing the replacement of one of the thin bottom pieces on the left side. The right side is ready for replacement.

Another view of glass that is ready for soldering with many remaining cracked ones.

Now this side is repaired and is awaiting the application of black patina, followed by a thorough cleaning, and application of stained glass finishing compound.

Another side, fully repaired.

Now all the repairs have been completed and the lamp has been thoroughly cleaned of all the liquid flux. Now I'm applying black patina to all of the silver soldered areas.  It instantly turns the solder black.  It is also thoroughly cleaned off, then allowed to dry.  The final step is the application, drying and buffing of the stained glass finishing compound.

And here's the lamp, fully repaired ..

Another side, good as new again ..

View from above.

View from above, on the light box, showing all the beautiful colors.
Thank you again, Ralph, for bringing your beautiful lamp back to me and letting me know its in in good hands!  I appreciated that.  May you enjoy it for years to come, with no more mishaps.  

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!