Repair Stained Glass Side Lights

This rose-themed sidelight was damaged by a moving company.  It was split in two pieces as shown.  Here's how I went about repairing it.

Measurements are appx 32" long by 5-1/2" wide.  Notice how it is split into two pieces.  Even the metal framing broke in two.

At this point, I've removed the thin metal frame that was around the panel.  Here I've cracked out some of the glass which needs to be replaced.

 I've taken off the old copper foil and solder, and now I'm tracing the opening onto a piece of Manila folder.  This will serve as my pattern to cut the replacement piece.

Here is the pattern piece and the glass I cut with it.  And a few of my tools: the purple oil-filed pistol grip glass cutter, the blue "running pliers" which snap glass in a straight line, and my "groziers" which I use to nip off smaller pieces of glass.

Now I'm doing the copper foil process.  I've added foil to the inner border and am burnishing the copper on the flower by using a "fid" or flat plastic wand.  The replacement piece has also been foiled.  

 I'm using the replacement piece of glass as a "place holder" while I smash out the cracked glass on the opposite side.

 I cut most glass by hand.  Here I've decided to use my electric ring saw to cut some particularly deep curves.

Now I've replaced and foiled three formerly-cracked pieces of glass.  I have one more to do, on the top side of the flower.

Now all the cracked pieces have been cut and foiled.  Here I've used push pins to secure the entire panel in place so that it doesn't shift as I work.  I'm in the process of brushing on liquid "flux" which is a catalyst which enables the solder to flow freely over the copper.

Here is this section, fully repaired.  After I soldered the foil, I cleaned it thoroughly, then brushed with black patina to make the solder turn black.

With my customer's OK, I upgraded her framing material from the kind on the left, which is very lightweight, to the heavier "channel" on the right which is beefier and will stand up to more abuse.  Both types of framing are made of zinc.

My husband Eric custom-cut the heavier zinc for the panel.  Then I put a metal "fence" around the new frame to hold it in place.  The "fence" is held in place with pushpins which sink into my work surface, which is made of Homasote, a sound-proofing building material.

Another view of the repaired section and the new, stronger frame in place.

Here's Eric, cutting the new zinc frame.

With the "fence" still in place. I'm now soldering the lead lines to the frame.  There are many contact points, front and back.  This will firmly secure the frame to the panel.  I also solder the mitered corners, front and back.

My customer wants this to be a hanging piece now, so I used 12 gauge wire to make her two new hooks.  Then I soldered those to the back of the piece, directly to the frame.

Notice that the hook is on the vertical side of the frame.  This is the best position to avoid loosening or bowing over the years.  Chains will be attached which will go straight up.

For a final touch. I'm now applying black patina to the zinc frame.  After the patina sets, I thoroughly clean it.  When the panel is dry, I wax and buff it for a nice shine.

And here is the panel, fully repaired and strengthened.  As with most moving companies, hers reimbursed her for the repair.  Thank you, Rose, it was a pleasure repairing this for you!

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