Oops, computer issues .. Stay tuned

Apparently, the new version of my photo software (which shall remain nameless), is a lot easier to screw up than it is to use.  Therefore, I'm not able to post until next week, after yet another tech person comes to take a look.

Up next .. A beautiful pair of dining room windows ..

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Stained Glass Autumn Leaf Sun Catchers

Here are some sun catchers I made a while back as a gift.  Just thought I'd post them today, after seeing the leaves in full color in Pennsylvania Delaware Valley region.  Quick, simple designs.

I found a few designs through Google.  Then I traced them onto a Manila folder, using carbon paper.

I used a variety of autumnal colored glass, all Cathedral (see through), some with textures for interest. Here all the glass has been cut.  I also ground the edges of the glass.

Applying adhesive silver back copper foil to the edges of each piece of glass.  Copper foil comes with the insides in three colors: copper, black and silver.  The inside of the foil should always match the color of the patina.  Since these leaves will be left silver, I'm using silver back foil.

Another view of the foiling process.

I've pinned the pieces of glass into the Homasote work surface to prevent them from shifting as I work.  Now I'm applying liquid flux to the copper foil.

I've soldered the fronts of the leaves and I've created a hook for each leaf.  I've done this by wrapping a length of wire around a metal brush.  The hooks can be seen in the center of the photo.

Now I've soldered on all the hooks and they're ready for hanging.

And here they are, ready for Fall and ready for the window.  I recommend using Command brand 1/2 lb hooks which are made specifically for adhering to glass.  They are much safer and long lasting for sun catchers than any of the suction cup holders.

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Octagonal Stained Glass Lamp Fixture Repair

I'm always amazed at all the different objects which can be made with stained glass.  Here's another unusual one which I recently repaired.  It's a special fixture which my customer purchased in Cape Cod over 40 years ago.  He added the light fixture to the top.  He had over 5 pounds of pea gravel in the base, with a small Malaysian doll standing in the gravel.  It hung over his kitchen table all those years until he noticed the bottom was detaching from the top.  That's when he brought it to me for repair.
 
 Here's a "before photo.  Notice that the top part of the barrel is not copper foil construction.  Its assembled with brass channel which is usually not repair-able.  But the detached part is, in fact, copper foil, so I was able to bring it back for him. The bottom of the barrel is clear glass.  Its hard to tell, but there are two small open areas at the top portion, just large enough to fit my hand inside.

Here are the five pounds of pea gravel which were in the bottom.

After I removed all the old copper foil and solder, I used a hand file to grind the edges of the glass.  This helps the copper foil to adhere better.

Here I’m applying new copper foil to the edges.

Moving on to the bottom portion, I’m taking off the old foil and solder.

I’m using tweezers to pull out as much of the old foil as I can.

Now I’ve lined the inside of the bottom with new copper foil.  I also soldered in a length of wire on top of the foil, to make the piece sturdier.

Now I’m soldering the inside of the bottom piece.

I’m using a wider copper foil on the bottom, attaching it to the sides as I go.

Then I added flat, braided reinforcement wire to strengthen the sides

After I soldered it, I turned it over and added new copper foil to the outer edges.

 I lined up the corners and taped the top to the bottom.

I soldered the top to the bottom, inside and out.  Here I’m working inside.  I’m applying flux to a length of flat braided wire which I soldered along 4 seams for strength and stability.

After all the reinforcement is in place, and everything is soldered, I’m applying black patina to the solder using a cotton ball.  This chemical instantly turns the solder black.  After this process, I use a spray cleaner to remove all traces of the chemicals inside the fixture.

And here it is, finished and ready to go!  

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Boxy Stained Glass Fixture Repair

Not all repairs are complicated and lengthy.  Here is an example of a one-piece replacement that got a contractor out of hot water.  One of his crew accidentally broke a customer's lighting fixture.  Since he was under the gun, I was able to repair this for him quickly.  Here's the process ..


This is a modern hanging lamp fixture.  The bottom is facing up.  The center of the lamp where it's open is the part that cracked.

The glass was already gone by the time it came to me, so that saved one step.  Here I'm tugging up the old fol and solder to prepare the surface for the replacement glass.

When glass is cut without being grinded, its sharp and shiny.  Here I'm using a hand file to sand down the glass.  This makes it safer to handle as I work, and it also helps the copper foil to adhere better.

Now I'm applying new copper foil in the same width as was used originally.

 Here I'm outlining the piece of replacement glass.

 

Grinding ..

The replacement glass is in place and new copper foil is added all around.  To assure the strength of this repair, I also added strips of flat, braided reinforcement braid underneath.  It connects in several places to the body of the lamp and can't be seen.

Soldering the foil after applying liquid flux.  After this step, the area receives a thorough cleaning.

Applying black patina to the silver solder, followed by another cleaning.  After the area is dry, I applied stained glass finishing compound.  This is a light wax which protects the patina and gives a nice shine.

And here's the repaired lamp.  My thanks to Joe for bringing this lamp to me for repair.

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Repairs to Heirloom Stained Glass Merchant Mouse

I'm always happy when a former customer comes back to me. I met the owner of this unique piece in June of last year when I repaired her lamp.This gift was made by her father years ago, for her store which was called the Merchant Mouse. It was a surprise gift, very treasured.

This repair presented a number of challenges. Matching the existing glass was one. Making the difficult, intricate cuts around the Mouse was another. And finally, re-creating the lettering would take some thought.

The stained glass served as the framed lid of a beautiful box which was wired to light it from the back. Here you can see the damage caused to the upper front panel. Notice that the words "The Merchant" were hand-painted and would need to be re-created.

A close up of the cracks.  You can see the foil inside as well.  This was to reflect and protect the two bulbs inside the box.

n order to access the panel for repair, my husband Eric removed the panel from the top of the box by removing the hinges.

Here I've cracked out much of the loose glass and I'm tugging off the old solder and foil around the border.

Now I'm melting off the excess solder and foil from around the mouse.

Carefully taking out more of the glass.

Now the cracked glass has been removed from the top panel.

Next I'm melting and carefully tugging off the old foil and solder from around the Mouse.  This was a delicate operation since there were many curves and small areas.

The next step in the process was to add new copper foil to the inner border and to the Mouse.

Here I'm tracing a template from which to cut the replacement glass.

Cutting out the template.

Making sure the template will fit, once I cut the glass.  Looks good.

Tracing the template onto the glass.  

Part of the difficulty of this repair was the intricate cuts that her father made to surround the Mouse.  These could not be done by hand, therefore I used my wet saw to do the task.  This glass was very difficult to match and to cut.  Amber and white opal is very popular and it is manufactured by several companies.  Since there is no way to know it's source, I relied on a stained glass colleague to help me find a match. Thank you Judy!

Now I'm grinding the edges of the piece.

Another challenge for me was matching the original font and spacing as my customer's father used.  I photographed the pieces, printed an actual size copy, and used that as my guide.

Since the "r" and the "c" were missing, I re-created them based on the other letters.  Here I'm tracing the outlines of the letters. directly onto the glass.

Painting on the letters using permanent glass paint. I also re-painted on the Mouse's left paw and his whiskers, as close as I could to the original style her father created.

In order to assure the letters are permanent, I baked the glass in a 325 degree oven.

After it cooled, I added new foil to the borders.

 

Now the panel has been cut to surround the Mouse and the hand-painted lettering is completed. I've set the panel in the lid now, to prepare it for soldering.

 

 After I applied liquid flux to the foil, I soldered the front of the panel in place.  I did the same to the back.

 

Cleaning off the liquid flux before applying patina.

Applying black patina to the solder.  This turns the solder black instantly.  Then I cleaned it again.  And as a final step, I applied stained glass finishing compound to the entire panel.  This protects the patina and gives it a nice shine.

 And here, on my light box, is the finished Merchant Mouse!  The colors really pop.

And here's a photo of it without being lighted from the back.  Beautiful!

And as a final step, Eric is re-attaching it to the box. My thanks to Gerri for coming back to me for this important repair.  I'm so happy for you that it went so well.  May you enjoy it for years and years to come!

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!