Octangonal Clear Powder Room Window - Soldered

There may be one more post after this one .. The window installed in its new home.  But this post will cover soldering, the application of patina, cleaning and waxing.  (Click on any photo to enlarge).

Below, I'm applying Canfield Technologies brand Liquid Solder-Mate Flux to the copper foil, using a metal craft brush.  These brushes tend to rust easily, so its a good idea to have a supply on hand.

 The next step is called "tack soldering".  I apply solder to the joints and randomly between the pieces of glass.

 After the entire front is tack soldered, its time to remove the "jig" or fence that's around the pieces.  Since they are now tack soldered, they will not shift.  After the jig is removed, the "cartoon" is carefully slid out from under the window.

   Here's the window, now fully soldered front and back. 

 My husband Eric takes over at this point, for the addition of a thin "channel" or metal frame around the perimeter of the window.  Below, he's taking measurements for the angle of channel to be cut.

 

Visible on the outer edge of the window is the thin zinc channel.  My husband places the fence back around the window to secure the channel to the window so that I can solder it without anything shifting.

 Below, I'm using a smaller width soldering iron to dab and smooth a bead of solder onto each of the 8 intersecting joints around the piece.

 On the back side of the window, I attach the lead lines directly to the frame for added strength.  I do not do this to the front for appearance reasons.

 The window feels (and is) considerably stronger now with the fully soldered front and back and the addition of the frame.  Here I'm washing it under warm water, using powdered cleanser and an old dish brush.  This will remove the flux and any stray Sharpie markings and beads of solder.

 After the window has thoroughly dried, I apply Novacan brand Black Patina to the zinc frame and to all of the solder lines, front and back.  Notice the bottle says "for solder and lead".  It works equally well on zinc frames.  There's no need to purchase the Novacan Patina "for zinc" .. This one product takes care of both zinc and solder.  The patina gets contaminated easily.  Always pour some into a cap and discard what isn't used rather than returning it to the bottle.  The patina works instantly.
Let it sit for 20 minutes or so, then bring the window back to the sink and rinse it with cool water.  Using a soft towel, wipe it down and allow it to dry thoroughly.

 After the window is completely dry, its time to wax it.  The wax gives the glass and bevels more shine and protects the patina.  Here I'm applying Clarity brand Stained Glass Finishing Compound which is a light carnauba wax.  Once it dries to a filmy white, buff it off with a soft rag.  Then go into the corners with Q-Tips and remove any wax which has gotten trapped there.

 And here is the finished window~!!  We hope to deliver it to its new home in the next few days.

Thank you Linda and Ed, for calling me in on this project!  It was a pleasure meeting you both .. I hope you enjoy your new window for many years to come!

Please visit my website (click here).  Two more projects await .. A lamp repair, followed by (possibly) another clear-with-bevels window.  If you are on FaceBook, become a fan and I'll keep you up to date on all my stained glass projects.  Call me any time at 201-600-1616 or email me with your questions. Thanks!