“Before” photo of lamp on light box with matching replacement glass. Five pieces in a row, starting with the corner, are cracked.
Discovered this clear tape on the cracked pieces which I removed prior to the repairs.
First piece out was the blue oval. I scored it with the purple tool which is an oil-filled pistol grip glass cutter. Then I used the metal end of it to crack out the remainder of the glass.
Here I’ve removed the blue oval as well as the brown crescent above it. I’ve also cleared off the old solder and foil from the upper border.
Now I’ve traced a template from which to cut the new pieces of glass.
Since there are two pieces with a single cut between them, I used double-bladed stained glass pattern shears to cut them. They leave a narrow strip of paper between the patterns. This allows room for the copper foil which will follow later.
Brown crescent traced and marked so that I know which side of the glass faces “in”.
I usually cut glass by hand but with deep curves like this, I will use my electric ring saw as shown.
As each piece of glass is cut, I bring it to the grinder to smooth the edges. This makes the glass safe to handle and helps the copper foil to adhere.
Now I’ve determined that the “questionable half circle” does in fact, need replacement as does the one adjacent to it. I’m cracking out the glass here.
With the row of cracked pieces removed, I’m adding new 7/32” copper foil to the border where the replacement pieces will be soldered.
Now I have the brown crescent and the blue oval in place and I’ve prepared the patterns for the two brown half circles.
Tracing patterns for the brown quarter circles.
Brown quarter circles cut.
Applying copper foil evenly to the edges of each piece of ground glass.
Using a “fid” or flat plastic wand to burnish the foil onto the glass.
Now that the rest of the row is ready, I’m removing the glass from the corner. I left this in place for stability throughout the process.
Here I’m using a hot soldering iron to melt out the old foil and solder.
Now I’ve cut, ground, and foiled all five pieces of replacement glass. I supported the back of the lamp with a large piece of foam, and I’ve secured the glass pieces with push pins as shown. This will keep all pieces in place as I solder.
Applying green liquid flux to the foil. This is a catalyst which helps the solder to flow freely.
Now I’ve soldered all the pieces and I’m applying black patina. This liquid instantly turns the solder black. The area receives a thorough cleaning with a neutralizing spray after both the fluxing and the patina-ing process.
I expected to find a length of wire along the bottom edge of the lamp. Most lamps from this era added the wire for extra strength and stability. Since you lamp didn’t have the wire, I decided to add it for a stronger repair.
Now the wire is in place on the border and all the pieces are soldered on the front of the lamp as well as the inside.
Here’s an “after” view, with the lamp on the light box, being lit from below.
Another view after the repair. Thank so much Mike, for bringing this lamp to me for repair. May you and your family enjoy it for many years at your vacation home!
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