Octagonal Stained Glass Lamp Fixture Repair

I'm always amazed at all the different objects which can be made with stained glass.  Here's another unusual one which I recently repaired.  It's a special fixture which my customer purchased in Cape Cod over 40 years ago.  He added the light fixture to the top.  He had over 5 pounds of pea gravel in the base, with a small Malaysian doll standing in the gravel.  It hung over his kitchen table all those years until he noticed the bottom was detaching from the top.  That's when he brought it to me for repair.
 
 Here's a "before photo.  Notice that the top part of the barrel is not copper foil construction.  Its assembled with brass channel which is usually not repair-able.  But the detached part is, in fact, copper foil, so I was able to bring it back for him. The bottom of the barrel is clear glass.  Its hard to tell, but there are two small open areas at the top portion, just large enough to fit my hand inside.

Here are the five pounds of pea gravel which were in the bottom.

After I removed all the old copper foil and solder, I used a hand file to grind the edges of the glass.  This helps the copper foil to adhere better.

Here I’m applying new copper foil to the edges.

Moving on to the bottom portion, I’m taking off the old foil and solder.

I’m using tweezers to pull out as much of the old foil as I can.

Now I’ve lined the inside of the bottom with new copper foil.  I also soldered in a length of wire on top of the foil, to make the piece sturdier.

Now I’m soldering the inside of the bottom piece.

I’m using a wider copper foil on the bottom, attaching it to the sides as I go.

Then I added flat, braided reinforcement wire to strengthen the sides

After I soldered it, I turned it over and added new copper foil to the outer edges.

 I lined up the corners and taped the top to the bottom.

I soldered the top to the bottom, inside and out.  Here I’m working inside.  I’m applying flux to a length of flat braided wire which I soldered along 4 seams for strength and stability.

After all the reinforcement is in place, and everything is soldered, I’m applying black patina to the solder using a cotton ball.  This chemical instantly turns the solder black.  After this process, I use a spray cleaner to remove all traces of the chemicals inside the fixture.

And here it is, finished and ready to go!  

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Boxy Stained Glass Fixture Repair

Not all repairs are complicated and lengthy.  Here is an example of a one-piece replacement that got a contractor out of hot water.  One of his crew accidentally broke a customer's lighting fixture.  Since he was under the gun, I was able to repair this for him quickly.  Here's the process ..


This is a modern hanging lamp fixture.  The bottom is facing up.  The center of the lamp where it's open is the part that cracked.

The glass was already gone by the time it came to me, so that saved one step.  Here I'm tugging up the old fol and solder to prepare the surface for the replacement glass.

When glass is cut without being grinded, its sharp and shiny.  Here I'm using a hand file to sand down the glass.  This makes it safer to handle as I work, and it also helps the copper foil to adhere better.

Now I'm applying new copper foil in the same width as was used originally.

 Here I'm outlining the piece of replacement glass.

 

Grinding ..

The replacement glass is in place and new copper foil is added all around.  To assure the strength of this repair, I also added strips of flat, braided reinforcement braid underneath.  It connects in several places to the body of the lamp and can't be seen.

Soldering the foil after applying liquid flux.  After this step, the area receives a thorough cleaning.

Applying black patina to the silver solder, followed by another cleaning.  After the area is dry, I applied stained glass finishing compound.  This is a light wax which protects the patina and gives a nice shine.

And here's the repaired lamp.  My thanks to Joe for bringing this lamp to me for repair.

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Rectangular Stained Glass Lamp Repair

I've repaired many round lamps so here's something different .. A rectangular one.  For this posting, I'll begin with the finished repair.  Here's how it looked when I was finished .. And see below how I went about it ..

Here's how the lamp came to me. The four pieces at the top had loosened from the sides.  One piece had detached, as did the round metal center.

Here's another "before the repair" view ..

For any lamp repair, its necessary to remove all the loose or broken pieces and clean them thoroughly.  Here I've already sprayed the edges with a household cleaner to remove the old copper foil adhesive.  Now I'm using an old plastic ruler to scrape off any remaining adhesive.  Notice that before I removed each piece of glass, I numbered it as well as numbering the side of the lamp where each piece will go. 

After the pieces are cleared of debris, I tugged off the old copper foil and solder from the upper border.  Some of it came off easily, some needed to be melted off with a soldering iron.  When I'm melting solder, I always wear a lead-protectant mask and have a filtered fan running, for safety. To assure that the copper foil adheres well, it's also necessary to grind the edges of the glass.  With this lamp, as with many others, the glass has not been ground.  So I used a metal file to do the job. The edge gets a thorough cleaning afterwards.

Next, I apply new 7/32" adhesive copper foil to the borders of each piece. Here I'm using a "fid" or flexible plastic wand to burnish the foil onto the glass, which I've placed on the center of the side and wrapped around evenly to each side.

 The outer rim of the lamp has new copper foil, as does each piece of glass.  I've measured the interior of the rectangle and placed the glass down to assure that it is the correct size.  Then I've taped it in place as shown.

 Seen from above, the inside of the top fits neatly. 

I'm now reaching inside the rectangle to coat the copper foil with the green solution which is liquid flux.  Flux is a chemical which acts as a catalyst to promote the melting of the solder.  Once the foil has been fluxed, I apply solder to lock the glass in place.Then the soldered area gets another thorough cleaning.

After the interior is secure, I solder the top of the lamp as shown.

Next comes the metal cap.  I've melted off the old solder and foil from this as well, and I've applied new copper foil. Then I solder it over the open square, from both sides, making sure that it is solidly attached.

 Now the metal cap is in place.  I thoroughly clean off all the flux to prepare for the application of the patina.

Next, I apply Novacan Black Patina to the solder.  It reacts instantly, turning it black. Another cleaning follows.

And once more, here's the repaired lamp.  The wiring and bulb are separate, of course, and the owner, Prit, will have reassembled the lamp upon its return.  Thank you Prit, for the chance to repair your artful lamp .. It was a pleasure!

For more information on other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please "like" my page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Colorful Geometric Lamp Repair

This gorgeous lamp fell victim to my customer's little boy who accidentally bumped it over.  It sustained a few cracked pieces, three of which I was asked to replace.  This lamp is Chinese, though, and an exact match is not available here in the United States.  Fortunately, I had a piece in inventory which matched the transparency and the colors, so we decided to go ahead with the repair.  (Click on any photo to enlarge).

Here's a close up of Chinese glass which is not carried by any U.S. manufacturers. 

A view of the three pieces needing replacement.  The blue rectangle on the right has a major crack.

 My first step is to pull off the old solder and copper foil using needle-nose pliers.  Then I melt off whatever is remaining, using a soldering iron as shown.

 Then I use a piece of manila folder, hold it behind the opening and create a pattern for the exact-size replacement glass.

I used the pattern to trace the glass and then cut it using a pistol grip glass cutter.

 

Here I've applied adhesive copper foil to the borders of the opening.  I'm applying copper foil to the replacement glass.  

Soldering the piece in place.  Notice the blue painter's tape behind it, to hold the glass in the correct position.

Here's the new piece of glass, soldered in place.

Here I'm applying liquid black patina which reacts instantly with the solder.  Following the application of the patina, the lamp gets cleaned and then waxed.

 And here's the lamp, repaired and ready for many more years of enjoyment by the family.

And here it is, in its full glory, illuminated from below by a large light box.  Thank you Dan and Cara for finding me!  It was a pleasure repairing this for you.

Please visit my website to see my custom windows and repairs (click here).  And if you are on FaceBook, become a fan and I'll keep you up to date on all my stained glass projects.  Call me any time at 201-600-1616 or email with your questions. Thanks!