Geometric Bathroom Windows

Recently, we were very happy to hear again from the couple who commissioned a pair of geometric stained glass windows for their downstairs bath in August, 2012.  Click here to see their first commission with Boehm Stained Glass Studio.

They are in the process of remodeling part of their home, including their upstairs bath, and that's where we come in again .. Another pair of double hung stained glass windows is part of the plan.  

Here are the windows.  They are also off the porch, as were the first windows we did.  Therefore, we needed to choose glass that would afford privacy.  We decided on a mix of glue chip, opalescent, rough rolled, 3/4" bevels, and 1-1/2" square bevels.

 

 Here's the inspiration .. Beautiful gray tile and glass pencil tiles that line the shower and walls of the new bathroom. 

I submitted two preliminary designs, and then my customer designed a third concept which incorporated aspects of windows she liked.  Part of the fun of custom work is being able to add elements from other sources to personalize the look!  Here's the computer rendition of her design of the two windows, top and bottom.  They are approximately 18" wide and 15" high.  (The gray-looking glass in the rendition is actually clear glue chip glass.)

 After my husband, Eric, took measurements of the windows, I made a paper "cartoon", shown below.  Then I laid down the 3/4" bevels along the sides and the 1-1/2" square bevels in the center.  These fixed-size bevels become the guide for the sizing and placement of all the glass which is to follow.

Since the design of these two windows are identical, I opted to prepare two separate sets of identical patterns.  I used different color manila folders, as shown below.  I did this to be sure that the correct pieces of cut glass were placed on the correct pattern.  When making patterns, I use regular carbon paper sandwiched between the "cartoon" and the manila folders. Then I trace the design and transfer all of the markings as well.  I used "regular" manila folders for the first window, and colored folders for the second.

 I cut each piece of the pattern with double-bladed stained glass pattern shears which allow for a small amount of space which will be taken up by copper foil later.  As pattern pieces are cut, I separate them into recycled envelopes by type of glass.

These windows called for many pieces of glass which needed to be 3/4" inch wide, to correspond with the 3/4" clear bevels.  In order to have consistency in the width, I opted to use my Beetle Bits Cutting System shown below.  I've had this system for a few years but had not tried it before.  As a newbie in need of more practice, my results weren't quite as promised.  It did prove to be a useful tool, though, which I will use on other projects which require cutting strips of the same size.

 Below are a few 3/4" strips made with the Beetle Bits Cutting System.

  Here are a few more cuts .. 1/2" borders made with Glue Chip glass.

Marked off below are three strips of gray opalescent glass, ready for snapping with the (blue) running pliers and then placement on the two patterns.  Notice the metal fence or "jig" which surrounds the border of the window.  This is in place to ensure that the piece of glass do not shift.

Pieces marked and being snapped with the blue "running pliers".  The next step is grinding the edges on the Glastar II grinder (below).

Grinding the edges of a clear piece of glue chip glass.  I usually wear "rubber fingers" for protection, but my leather-palmed gloves were nearby, so I wore them instead.

Here's a handful of rough rolled dark gray glass, ready for placement on the patterns.  I keep the number on the piece until it is placed on the "cartoon".

Below, I'm cleaning the tip of the soldering iron on a block of Sal Ammoniac.  The white smoke indicates that the carbon build-up on the iron is being burned off.  This process helps keep the tip clean and the iron hot.  Note that I am always safety conscious and was wearing a safety mask during this process.

Wearing my lead-protectant mask (seen here while working on another project).

Since working with stained glass involves handling lead, I also use "D-Lead Abrasive Hand Soap" after each work session.  Although it is abrasive, it is actually mild on the hands.

Back to the project .. After all the glass pieces have been cut, I apply black-backed Copper Foil to the edges of each piece of glass.  Then, using a "fid" or flexible plastic wand, I press the foil onto the glass as shown.  This prevents any liquids from getting under the foil.

For added strength, I randomly insert strips of "Re-Strip Copper Reinforcing Strip".  It fits between the foiled pieces of glass and becomes invisible after soldering.

Now, all of the glass and bevels have been foiled.  Notice that both of the windows are still enclosed in the metal "fence" or "jig".

The next step is the application of Canfield Technologies Blu-Glass liquid Flux.  This is an agent which allows for the soldering of the copper foil.  After I've applied flux to all of the copper foil, I add a dab of solder to each intersection of the pieces, to bond them together.  This process is called "tack soldering". Then I pull the push pins out and remove the "jig", and carefully slide the paper "cartoon" out from under the glass.

Now the fronts of both windows have been fully soldered and the "cartoon" has been slid out.  So now I'm cleaning the chemicals off using "Kwik-Clean Stained Glass Flux and Patina Remover".

Now my husband Eric measures and custom cuts a sturdy metal channel frame for each side of both windows.  Here he's using a Dremel cutter to make the angle for the corner.

Eric placing the frame on the edge of the window. 

After each frame is cut and placed on the edge, he replaces the "jig" against the frame to hold it in place while I solder the frame to the window.  I solder the corners first, then I solder each lead line to the frame for added strength.  After the fronts are soldered and cleaned, I carefully turn the windows over and solder and clean the backs.  The blue tape is marking the front and top of each window.

Below, I'm applying Novacan Black Patina to the solder.  After the patina is allowed to set, I again use "Kwik-Clean" to spray the patina and clean it off.  After the windows are dry, I apply Liva Stained Glass Finishing Polish to the front and back of each window.  This is a light wax which protects the patina and gives the glass a nice shine.

 

And here are the finished windows!   Thank you for having us back, Nancy and Roy .. It was a pleasure working with you again!  All the best in your "new" home!

And one more .. The computer rendition is on the right .. Finished windows on the right.

Please visit my website to see my custom windows and repairs (click here).  And if you are on FaceBook, become a fan and I'll keep you up to date on all my stained glass projects.  Call me any time at 201-600-1616 or email with your questions. Thanks! 

Art Deco windows installed

My husband Eric installed all 9 Art Deco windows this weekend.  Here he is, affixing clips to the large window to securely anchor it to the wood frame window. (Click on any image to zoom in).

 

He installed the 8 smaller windows above it with clear silicone caulk.  First he positioned each piece of glass in the center of the mullions and then secured each one in place with blue painters tape as shown.  Note that he also positioned a few layers of cardboard beneath each piece of glass to help center them.

Below, he's applying clear silicone caulk to the space between the edge of the glass and the edge of the mullion.  The silicone will secure the glass and is ideal for this application since it is clear and it will allow light in.  Its also flexible to allow for temperature changes through the seasons.  To allow for airflow between the layers of glass, some gaps were left in the silicone caulking.

 

It takes about 24 hours for the silicone to set, so we left it to our customer to remove the blue tape.  Here's what the windows looked like when we left. 

These windows face the front of their home.  It was wonderful to look up on our way out and see the character the stained glass windows add, even from the outside. 

Below is a photo of the completed window, as taken by my customer the next day.

Here is a lovely comment left for us ... "The window is gorgeous and exceeded our expectations! The pictures of the finished window don't really do it justice as the colors and the different types of clear glass are quite astonishing; especially when the light reflects through. We have already received quite a number of compliments after only a few days! It is the focal point of our bathroom, and rightly so"

Thank you for finding me, Mark and Debi.  It was a pleasure bringing your vision to reality .. May you enjoy them for many, many years!

Boehm Stained Glass Studio website and FaceBook site.

Art Deco smaller windows completed

As soon as the 290-piece Art Deco was completed (see posts below), I started working on the 8 smaller windows which we will install above it.  The smaller windows are 8" square and will be clear waterglass and sky blue rough rolled glass, both of which are used in the main window.  Here again is my customer's window.

And here's the computer-generated preview I prepared:

Here is the glass, below, which I cut horizontally so that the texture of the waterglass moves from left to right.  On the upper left is a stack of the 4 plain clear waterglass windows.  Surrounding that are 4 clear waterglass quadrants with the sky blue rough rolled diamonds for the upper windows, along with their manila folder patterns. (Click on any photo to enlarge).

After I ground the edges of each piece, I washed and rinsed them off. Then I applied 7/32 black back copper foil as seen below. The self-adhesive foil is applied dead-center to the side of each piece of glass, then pressed into place with a fid, or flat plastic wand-like tool, also shown below.

 

After I foiled each of the windows, I put them in an individual jig to make sure they stayed square during the soldering process.  Below, the first two windows are soldered and the second two are just foiled.  (Click on image to zoom in).

After soldering the fronts, backs, and edges of each of the 8 windows, I applied black patina, rinsed, and then waxed them.  Waxing protects the patina and brings up the shine in the glass.  (Not pictured are the four plain clear waterglass windows which will be installed below these).

Here is one of the four windows which have the sky blue diamond in the center.  The diamond is the same color and size as the ones in the larger window.  Now you can see the true beauty of the clear waterglass.  It will let in lots of light but will give privacy as well.

Depending on my customer's schedule, my husband Eric and I hope to do the installation this weekend.  These windows will be the crowning glory to their newly renovated bathroom.  The next post will show the installation, and the windows in their new home.

Boehm Stained Glass Studio website and FaceBook site.

Art Deco window completed

Just three weeks after I prepared the pattern, the 35" x 17", 290-piece Art Deco window is complete.  Here are the final steps ..

My husband Eric measured and cut 3/8" zinc "U" channel for each side.  (I appreciate all his experience working with aircraft sheet metal).  Note that Eric put the window back in the jig to make sure that the metal frame stays close against the glass while I soldered it onto the perimeter of the piece. Shown is the back of the window, where I soldered the lead lines directly to the frame to give the window strength and stability. (Click on any photo to enlarge).

Next, it was time to clean off the flux, solder beads, and markings.  Using powdered cleanser and an old dish brush, I gently brushed clean the entire window, both sides, putting half of one side in the sink at a time, and rinsed with clean water.  Then I allowed the window to dry completely.

Next, I applied black patina to the entire window, front and back, with a metal craft brush.  Simply paint the chemical directly onto all the lead lines, let it set and then rinse off with cool water and pat dry.  I used a specialized black patina for the zinc frame, same process. 

After the window is completely dry, I waxed it with a specialized stained glass finishing compound.  Its a carnauba wax, similar to what is used on cars, only lighter.

I signed the piece earlier in the process, before I completed the copper foiling.  Its in the bottom right and barely noticeable.  Here's my etching tool, signature and date which goes on all my windows.

And here it is! (Click on image to enlarge)

 

This window was a joy to create!  I look forward to having my customer see it for the first time "in person".  But first I'll be creating 8 smaller windows for him, which will be installed above this one.  (Notice how close the computer rendition is to the completed window!).

The smaller windows will be created using clear waterglass and sky blue rough rolled glass diamonds, the same as was used in the just-completed window.  I'll be back soon to show these in progress.

Stained glass windows make beautiful, personal gifts for anniversaries, birthdays, and Christmas.  Give me a call, 201-600-1616 or send an email .. We do windows long distance, too.  Thanks! 

Boehm Stained Glass Studio website and FaceBook site.

Art Deco window soldered

Well, I was going to wait until the "big reveal" but here's a sneak preview.  I tack soldered the front of the Art Deco window. This means that I applied liquid flux (a soldering agent) to all of the copper foiled lines in the window.  Then I soldered the intersections where the pieces meet each other, just enough that I was able to safely remove the jig, or metal fence around the piece, without disturbing the placement of any of the pieces.

Tack soldered window. (Click to enlarge)

I then removed the thumb tacks from the jig, thus freeing the window.  Then I carefully slid out the paper pattern from underneath.

Next, I donned my Sperian P-100 Particulate Respirator for Lead and soldered the entire front of the window as shown below.  The window is filthy at this point, covered with stray markings, sticky clear flux, and small beads of solder.  The window is resting on the homasote which is tan, so it is showing through the clear glass. The gray border and the purple line design still appear dark. (Click on photo to enlarge).

Next, my husband will cut the zinc channel framing which I will securely solder at each corner. Then I'll carefully turn the window over, and solder the entire back and secure it to the zinc frame.  Then it will be ready for cleaning, drying, patina-ing, waxing, and unveiling .. Check back soon, its almost ready for its debut.

Boehm Stained Glass Studio website and FaceBook site.

Art Deco stained glass window foiled

I was off on a photo shoot one day this week, but returned to complete the application of 3/16 inch adhesive copper foil to the center of the edge of each of the 290 pieces in this 35" x 17" window.  (Click on photo for a closer look).

I generally use 7/32 inch foil but because so many of the pieces in this window are small, and because I want maximum light to come through, I opted for the more narrow 3/16 size.  I'm happy with the results.

For reference, the widths of copper foil, from narrow to wide are: 5/32, 3/16, 13/64, 1/4, and 5/16.  Copper foil is available in copper backed (for use on opaque glass), black backed (for use on clear or cathedral glasses when the piece will have a black patina, as this one will), and silver backed (for use on clear or cathedral glass when the piece will not be patinaed).


With every stained glass window, no matter how carefully the pattern is prepared and the pieces cut, there will always be a few pieces that don't fit exactly as they should.  The copper foil is very thin but it does add something to the size of each piece.  Even that small amount can make the pieces fit too tightly.  So I trimmed and ground down a few pieces along the way.

Notice that all the pieces are still confined inside the metal fence or "jig".  They will be free of this early this week when I apply liquid flux to the foil and then tack solder all the pieces.  The next blog update will be "the big reveal", photos of the completed window off of the work bench and in the light.  Its going to be a beauty!

Boehm Stained Glass Studio website and FaceBook site.

Art Deco window glass all cut

All of the 290 pieces of the 35" x 17" Art Deco window have now been cut.  At this stage, the window is in its "ugly duckling" phase.  Three main ingredients are still missing .. the copper foil, the solder and the most important ingredient, the light.  The colors will really pop once this panel is off the work bench and into the sun.  (Click on photo for closer look).

As for the true colors, the outer border is a medium gray, the dark-appearing line design is grape, a very rich purple.  The fans will appear a warm tan in the light, and those blue diamonds will really pop.  There are three different types of clear glass, all of which have a different texture.  It does require some imagination, but when seen in the light, it will closely resemble the computer generated preview as shown below, from the August 4th blog post.

Below is a side view of the fully cut window which shows some of the different textures of the glass. 

Notice that the window is still enclosed in the metal fence, or "jig" where it will remain until after it is tack soldered.  The next step is applying copper foil to each of the pieces of glass, one at a time, and then replacing each piece into the pattern.  As I do the copper foiling, I will often take time to trim or even re-cut pieces for a better fit.

My goal is always to create an esthetically pleasing stained glass window that is structurally sound and beautiful to see.  This one is well one its way .. Stay tuned ..

Boehm Stained Glass Studio website and FaceBook site.