Repairs to Stained Glass Tulip Lamp

This beautiful lamp met up with an energetic toddler and ended up with at least 16 broken and cracked pieces.  The metal canopy was also crushed.  (That's the metal cap on top).  It has sentimental value to my customer's wife.  Here's how I'm going about repairing it. (Click on any photo to enlarge).

After careful examination, I marked each broken or cracked piece with a small square of blue painter's tape.  Here's the view from inside the dome.

The canopy was crushed and flattened on one side.  I'll fix that later.

 In order to preserve the stability of the structure of the lamp, its important to remove and replace every other piece.  Removing side-by-side broken pieces can cause it to collapse or get out of shape.  To remove the cracked glass, I score it with a pistol-grip glass cutter as shown below.  Then, using the brass end of the glass cutter, I tap on the glass until the piece cracks further and loosens up.  I also tap on the outside of the dome directly on the piece to be removed.

 For this operation, eye protection is strongly recommended.  Glass shards can go flying in any direction.  For whatever pieces don't fall out on their own, I extract them using needle nosed pliers, as shown below.

Below, looking at the inside of the dome, several pieces have been removed.

 The next step isn't shown .. I carefully melt out the foil around the edges of the piece of glass which was removed.  This requires use of a lead-protecting breathing mask.  I also use the needle nose pliers to pull off the foil.  Then I clean off the edge using a paper towel.

Next, I make a tracing of the opening, using an old manila folder for a pattern, as shown below.  The pattern is then used to make an outline on the glass.

 Below, I'm grinding the edges of the cut glass.  Sometimes further tweaking is required to get the piece to fit in the opening just right.  It can't be too tight or too loose.

 The next step is to cover the edges with copper foil, as shown below.  The foil gets centered on the edge.

 Then, using a fid, or flat plastic wand, the copper foil is pressed firmly onto the glass.

 Next, the inside of the opening gets new copper foil, as shown.  This is also pressed down using a fid. (You can also see the removed, curved piece of glass still has the original copper foil and solder in place at this point).

 Here (in silver) are several pieces which have been replaced.  The soldering at this point is rough and done just to secure the pieces.

 When soldering the outside of the dome, I place the lamp in a boxful of packing peanuts.  Solder needs to be applied at a surface that's perpendicular to the floor. This does the trick!

Its coming along well!  I'll continue to replace each piece as shown and will post another update in the next day or two.

Visit our website to see more repairs, custom windows, and testimonials from our happy customers.  Thanks!

A surprise gift of glass and some instruction, too

Today I had the pleasure of meeting a former stained glass artisan who chose me as the happy recipient of his inventory of glass.  This kind gentleman just came out of the blue with a station wagon full of wonderful, old glass in the most incredible colors and textures!

He gifted me with several vintage shoe boxes full of smaller glass pieces, as well as a larger box of pieces in every color imaginable, plus a large sheet of clear window glass, a large sheet of opalescent lamp glass, and several other large sheets in delicious shades of red, midnight blue, and ginger ale .. That's the only way I can describe the color of that antique, bubbled sheet.  He also gifted me with several feet of lead came.

As we unloaded the goodies, he mentioned that he had taught a few students how to do stained glass using lead came instead of copper foil.  I was all ears!  For the past year or so, I've been wanting to work with lead came but wasn't quite sure where to begin.  And here, today, at my doorstep, was someone offering to teach me!  He demonstrated the technique, answered my questions, and gave me a lot of encouragement and ideas.

In the past, I've been referring lead came clients elsewhere but as my business grows I am eager to offer repairs and custom work for lead came clients as well.  Stay tuned.

My next project is to repair a beautiful lamp which sustained 14 cracked or broken pieces. I began assessing the damage this afternoon and will start the process of repairing it tomorrow.  Check back as I start working on this beauty.

Visit my website and If you are on FaceBook, you can keep up with my work by becoming one of my fans.  Thanks!

Stained Glass Front Door Panel - Installation

Last night's rain delayed our plans, but tonight we were able to install the replacement stained glass panel to the side of the front door.  First, Eric removed the piece of wood that the homeowner added for security.  I held the panel in place as Eric added two screws in front of it to secure it, then he taped the border and added glazing putting around the entire panel.  (Click on any photo to enlarge).

The glazing putty will take a day or so to set up, then it can be painted the same green as the rest of the exterior window frame.

(Left) Here's the exterior view of the panel with the putty in place and the blue painters' tape removed.

(Right) And here's the finished panel (the one in the middle), as viewed from the lobby looking out.





We are very happy with the color and texture match for the antique green glass.  The glue chip glass will give the homeowners privacy and the new panel should easily last another 90 years.

The entryway, restored as new!

Ronnie, thank you for entrusting us with this important element of your home which has been in your family for so many years, and Kate, you were a joy to work with!  We wish all the best to you and your family.

If you have a stained glass window in need of repair .. or if your bath, kitchen, or other room, could use some color and character, please consider us!  Visit our website for ideas .. Look through the projects to the lower right side of the blog .. and get in touch!  201-600-1616.  If you are on FaceBook, you can keep up with our work by becoming one of our fans .. And remember, we also work long distance, collaborating on your design via email and phone .. All we need to get started are a few photos and your measurements!  Thank you!

Stained Glass Front Door Panel Reconstruction - Repair

Our current project is to rejuvenate a lovely 90-year old home's entryway.  The homeowner's paper boy got a bit too enthusiastic and broke one of the panels beside the front door.  Our task was to repair, and reconstruct the broken panel.  Here's a view from inside the home:  (Click on any photo to enlarge).

For security, the homeowner nailed a piece of wood behind the broken panel, shown below.  The glass we are replacing is leaded glass.  I'll be using a different technique, copper foil, but we'll be modifying it with wider copper foil to mimic the original panel.

Below, my husband Eric is using hammer and screwdriver to carefully remove the broken panel.

Now the panel is safely out and he's removing a screw from the original installation.

One of the challenges of repairing older stained glass panels and windows is matching the existing glass.  Long ago, I was told that green is the hardest color to match because the human eye can distinguish more shades of this color than any other.  The reason was due to survival instincts.  Certain green plants could be poisonous, so our forebears learned quickly what to eat, and what to avoid, partly by color.  (Anyway, I digress ...).

Here's Eric holding up three potential choices for the green.  One is the existing glass (the second sample) and the other three were contenders. During my research for a good green match, I contacted two suppliers, one of whom was able to provide what we thought would be a "perfect" match.  After we removed the panel, we decided to try for a "better than perfect" match, and after visiting a third supplier, we were able to find a nice green glue chip glass that we agreed would be the winner.  The color was a better match and the texture of the glue chip will provide the necessary privacy for the front entryway.

We were fortunate that the homeowner was able to retrieve all four pieces of the "petals".  The larger one, below, was snapped off at the point.

Just by chance, I had the perfect piece of opalescent glass in my inventory.  I used one of the larger "petals" as a pattern to cut a new one with a better point.  Below, wearing gloves for protection against the lead, I'm removing the 4th piece of "petal" which was still attached to the lead came.

Below, I've traced the existing petal onto the glass with a thin black Sharpie pen and am preparing to cut it using a pistol-grip cutter.  Curiously enough, I discovered that each of the petals were slightly different shapes.  The original creator of these panels apparently did not use a pattern for his or her creation.  I love the idea of that!

I cleaned up the glass using Goo Gone, to allow the copper foil (later) to adhere properly.

Here I'm grinding the edge of the newly cut larger "petal".  Notice that I'm using rubber finger tips to protect my fingers.  The grinding wheel itself will not cut skin but the glass .. yes.  The rubber finger tips are available in a few sizes at any Staples office supply store.  Invaluable!

Using Eric's measurements, I prepared a template for the pattern.  I folded it in half on both sides to determine the middle.  Then I laid down all four "petals" and traced around them using a lead pencil for accuracy.  When making glass patterns, it is always a good idea to use the thinnest line possible.  It will give better results, and create less trimming issues later.

Here's the pattern making process. I'm tracing it onto an old manila folder, using carbon paper.  I've pinned the layers to a Homasote work surface to be sure that it doesn't shift. Homasote is a building product used to sound-proof walls.  It is inexpensive and readily available at home improvement stores.

A closer view of the pattern-in process, below, which shows the numbering.  Note that I've marked the pattern (and later, the glass) with arrows so that I can properly position them later.

The outer edge of the pattern is cut with plain scissors.  However, the individual pattern pieces must be cut with special scissors which carve out a small space between each piece, as shown below.  This open area is taken up by the copper foil which will follow.

I'm often asked how you cut curves.  Here's how its done, below.  When you have a curve, cut a thin sliver part-way or all the way along the edge.  Then, using groziers (special stained glass pliers), carefully snap off the sliver.  Continue cutting slivers until you reach the line.  Glue chip glass is very agreeable to cut.  Opalescent glass may take a bit more nerve, but the process will work for all glass.  In cases of deep curves, it may be better to use an electric glass cutter rather than attempting it by hand.

And here is the glass, cut and ready for foiling.  Notice that it is enclosed in a "jig" or "fence."  This is to prevent the pieces from shifting as they are worked on.

The most common copper foil size is 7/32".  Since we are mimicking lead lines with this project, I've opted to use 1/4" foil.  Here you can see I'm applying it directly to the center of each piece of glass.

As soon as the foil is applied, it gets pressed onto the glass with a "fid" or flat plastic wand, as shown below.  This assures that no liquids will seep under the glass and ensures a longer life for the panel overall.  Notice the beautiful texture of the glue chip glass.

Below is the panel, copper foiled and ready for soldering.  Notice that I do not foil the outer edges.  It tends to interfere with the addition of the framing, so I omit it.

Below I'm applying flux to the copper foil, to prepare it for soldering with 60/40 (tin/lead) solder.

Below, the panel is released from the jig and the soldering of the front and back is complete.  I always use a protective mask when I'm soldering.  Look for a lead protecting mask at your local hardware store before doing any soldering.  They are available for around $15 each and well worth it.

Next is the cleaning.  Below, I've scrubbed the entire piece with powdered cleanser and rinsed it under tap water.  Notice that I'm wearing gloves.  The flux can be very caustic, as can the powdered cleanser.  Also, the rubber gloves help keep a firm grip on the panel.

Next .. Waxing the piece and installing it!  Stay tuned .. the best is yet to come .. the big reveal!


Visit our website to see more repairs, custom windows, and testimonials from our happy customers.  Thanks!

Geometric bath windows - Pattern to Installation

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Shortly after we completed work on the kitchen cabinet replacement panels (see blog entries below), we began the next commission.  This commission is for a pair of double-hung windows for a bathroom which overlooks a patio.  For many years, the homeowners had used a stick-on faux stained glass window product.  They decided it was finally time to put the real thing in its place.  The homeowners requested that the glass used would allow for privacy, but also light.  They had a wonderful design already in mind.  They also had a deadline in mind, their upcoming family reunion.  No problem!  Here is their inspiration window: (Click on any photo to enlarge).

The homeowner wanted to use just the three interlocking diamonds in the center.  She had a warm color scheme in mind, using ambers and perhaps some green.  I presented a modified, two-window design in three different color combinations.  Below is the rendition of the chosen color combination for the upper and lower, double-hung windows.

Together, we decided on a medium amber rough rolled glass for the borders, light amber opalescent for the larger triangles, medium green hammered Cathedral for the design, and clear granite for the center diamonds.  This glass will provide light and privacy and the colors and textures will add visual interest.

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After deciding the design, glass choices and colors, the next step is to prepare the pattern.  This is done by tracing it onto old manila folders using carbon paper as shown:

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Next, each piece of the pattern is cut using specialized scissors which leave a small amount of “breathing space” between each piece, as shown.  This is to allow room for the copper foil which will be applied later.

Its important to be very well organized with the pattern pieces, especially when building two nearly identical windows.  I labeled each piece “top” or “bottom” and put them into recycled, labeled envelopes as shown:

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When tracing the pattern onto glass which is textured, turn the glass to the smooth side and turn the pattern face down.  The glass is then scored using a glass cutter. There are several kinds available. I prefer the pistol grip cutter as shown.

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As for cutting glass, there are several techniques to use, depending on the character of the glass.  Generally speaking, Cathedral (or see-through) glass is easiest to cut.  The more dense opalescent glass take a bit more care, sometimes a lot more.  But either glass can break unexpectedly, so I always follow the rule, “The glass is the boss.”

Below, I’ve traced and scored the border glass.  Since it uses about 1/3 of the total 12” x 16” sheet, and the cut is a straight line, I scored it and decided to snap it off the edge of the table as shown.  My left hand is resting on the “good” part, the part that will be used in the window. Pressing gently down with my right hand (not shown), the glass broke cleanly and evenly across its entire length.

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Another way to cut straight pieces, particularly shorter ones is to use “running pliers” like the blue ones shown here.  Tap lightly on the score line front and back, using the metal end of the pistol grip cutter.  Then line up the score line with the line on top of the pliers and use medium pressure.  If the glass does not respond, tap some more and try again.  Keep trying until it breaks. 

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There are also a few ways to trim off small pieces of glass.  One way is by using “groziers” or special stained glass pliers as shown:

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After several pieces of glass are cut, I take them to the grinder and smooth all the edges. This is done not only for safety, but to assure that the copper foil will adhere correctly.

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Notice that I’m wearing fingertip protectors.  They are invaluable when grinding cut glass.  They are available at any Staples, in several sizes.

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As each piece of glass is cut and ground, it gets laid onto the pattern like a jigsaw puzzle.  Notice that the borders of the pattern are now contained with a metal fence or “jig”.  This assures that all the glass stays in place throughout the process.  The “jig” is released only after the glass has been tack soldered.  Here are both windows with all the glass cut, inside the jigs.  

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The copper foil process is next.  Each piece of glass is edged with adhesive copper foil.  There are several widths of foil available.  I used the most common size, 7/32” wide.  Because these windows will have a black patina, I used black-backed foil for the see-through glass.  Here are the windows, fully foiled:

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Next is the tack soldering.  All of the copper foil is now brushed with a liquid flux as shown, and soldered at the joints and key spots within the windows.  When the tack soldering is done, the jig is released and the paper pattern is slid out from underneath and set aside.

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Then the full soldering process begins.  First the front, then the back of each window.  Safety first, I always wear a Sperian P1130 face mask against any flux or fumes from the solder, which is 60/40, tin/lead.  The masks are about $12 each and can be found in most hardware stores.

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Here are the windows, fully soldered, front and back.  You’ll note that I do not add copper foil to the outer edges of the windows.  It sometimes interferes with the installation of the metal framing, so it is best left off.

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Here my husband Eric is fitting metal channel, or framing material, to the borders of each side of each window.  This adds strength and stability.  It also assures that if the homeowners ever want to remove the windows, they can do so.  Framing with metal channel adds considerably to the life of any stained glass window.

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Here are both windows, with the metal channel, back in the jig so that I can solder the lead lines to the frames.

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I solder the lead lines to the frame on the back of each window.  I also solder the mitered corners, front and back.

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After both windows were soldered and framed, I carefully wash them with powdered cleanser and brush them in the sink.  This is to remove the flux, beads of solder, and any remaining marks made by the Sharpie during the assembly process.

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After the windows are dry, the black patina is brushed onto the solder lines and the zinc channel frame, both sides.

After the patina is dried, each window is waxed on both sides.  Then they are ready for installation!  Here are the windows being held in place by my husband, Eric, as he prepares to install them.

Below, he is applying the adhesive to the metal channel to secure them to the existing windows.

Here is the upper window, installed.

It takes about 24 hours for the adhesive to set completely.  Therefore Eric temporarily secured both windows by using corrugated cardboard blocks and blue painters tape.  The homeowners had their own "big reveal" the next day, when they removed the blocks and tape!

In summary, here are the "inspiration" photo, the computer rendition of the finished windows, and the finished windows!

The entire process, design through installation, took just under 3 weeks.  Best of all, we were able to complete them in time for the family's reunion.  Thank you, Nancy and Roy .. It was such a pleasure creating these for you!

If your bath, or kitchen, or other room, could use some color and character, please consider us creating a window or two for you, also!  Visit our website for ideas .. Look through the projects to the lower right side of the blog .. and get in touch!  201-600-1616.  If you are on FaceBook, you can keep up with our work by becoming one of our fans .. And remember, we also work long distance, collaborating on your design via email and phone .. All we need to get started are a few photos and your measurements!  Thank you!