White lamp with Checkered Edge - Repair

Another lovely lamp came in last week for repair.  This one is rather small, about 13" across, but it sustained major damage requiring the replacement of 20 piece of glass.  Here's the process .. (Click on any photo to enlarge .. Click on "X" in upper right to return to blog.)

Here's how the lamp arrived.  It seems to have rolled when it fell because there was damage on all sides.  This caused the normally round lamp to be pushed out of shape.

 I marked the cracked pieces with rectangles of blue painter's tape as shown below.

The shape of the lamp is very evident when viewed from the side.

Below, I'm carefully pulling the sides of the lamp outward and turning the lamp in a circular motion, to try and help it regain its shape. 

After assessing and marking all the cracked pieces with squares of blue tape, I started replacing those which were closed to the cap.  Here I'm using needle-nose pliers to extract the cracked glass, one piece at a time.

Now I'm removing the old solder and copper foil using needle nose pliers.  For the smaller pieces of green or white glass, I melted it off using a hot soldering iron.  Either way is effective.

 After I completely cleaned the old adhesive off the borders of the opening using a de-greasing spray, I traced the opening onto a piece of an old manila folder as shown below.  This is then cut out and used as the pattern for the replacement glass.

 Here are a few of my tools .. a pistol grip cutter, a thin line Sharpie pen and an old flat plastic ruler.  I traced the piece onto the edge of the glass, and knowing that I had several, similar sized pieces to cut, I extended the score across the entire length of the glass.  Using the brass end of the cutter, I tapped repeatedly on the cutting score until the piece separated. 

Below, I've scored the glass with the pistol grip cutter and am using a (blue) pair of running pliers to snap the glass in a straight line.

 Below, I've lined the opening with adhesive copper foil.  To assure a strong bond for a new piece, its necessary to completely clean and re-foil the outer border for the replacement pieces.

 The next step is to grind the edges of the newly cut piece.  This protects the skin from cuts and allows the copper foil to adhere.  Notice that I'm wearing Staples rubber fingers which protect my fingers from the sharp glass.

 Next, I'm pressing the copper foil onto the glass using a "fid" or flexible, flat, plastic wand.  This prevents fluids from getting under the foil.

 Next I brush on liquid flux, then I solder the piece in place.  This piece has been taped in place from the inside of the dome using wide blue painter's tape.  Also, I've placed the lamp in a large box of packing peanuts so that the surface to be soldered will be face up.

 After 7 pale amber (whitish) pieces were replaced in the dome, I moved onto the green pieces at the edge of the lamp.  By this point, the shape of the lamp had recovered nicely.  Below, I'm pulling out a piece of the green edge using needle-nose pliers.  Notice the piece of blue tape on the triangle above the green piece.  This means that that piece is cracked and also needs to be replaced.

 All stained glass lamps are reinforced at the edge with a wire that runs along the outer edge of the glass on the border.  You can see that wire in the photo below.  I always keep that wire intact since it maintains the structure of the lamp.

 Below, I've removed the green piece as well as the white triangle which was also cracked.  I've also cleaned the inner border of the opening and then lined it with copper foil.

 Then, of course, I apply copper foil to the edges of each of the new pieces of glass.  I set them in place as shown below, apply liquid flux with an acid brush, and then solder them in place, both sides.

 Here is a view of that wire that runs the perimeter of the lamp.  It sits in the center on top of the copper foil. When I apply solder to that outer edge, the wire becomes fused with the glass, adding strength and shape to the dome.

 The next to final step is to apply Novacan Black Patina to the solder lines, using an acid brush as shown.  The patina works instantly.  I then let the lamp sit for several minutes before spraying the areas with Kwik Clean Flux Remover.  I then thoroughly dry the lamp with a cotton towel.

For the final step, I apply Clarity Stained Glass Finishing Compound to the inside and the outside of the dome.  This product protects the solder and gives the glass a nice shine.

I replaced a total of 20 pieces of glass in the lamp, 10 green, 7 white (pale amber) rectangles, and 3 smaller triangles. Below are three photos of the completed lamp, now round and free of cracks. 

Thank you Mike, and little Patrick, for bringing your lamp to me for repair.  It was a pleasure meeting you both and I hope you and your family enjoy the lamp for many years to come.

Please visit my website to see my custom windows and repairs (click here).  And if you are on FaceBook, become a fan and I'll keep you up to date on all my stained glass projects.  Call me any time at 201-600-1616 or email with your questions. Thanks!

Fruit Lamp Repair #3 - Apples

I recently completed repairs on this classic fruit-themed hanging lamp from the 1970's.  There are several variations of this lamp which features glass in the shapes of apples and pears.  This lamp fell from the ceiling to the floor and four of the five apples got crushed.  Here are photos of the repair process.  (Click on any photo to enlarge .. Click on the "X" in the upper right corner to return to the post).

This lamp is heavy and therefore a bit difficult to move around.  I kept the lamp resting in a large box filled with packing peanuts.  I did this to protect it from further damage and to allow for easier access to the parts I needed to repair.  Here you can see that three of the apples have been cracked.  A fourth one, on the left side, is also cracked.

Another view of the damaged apples.

The first step is any repair is to remove the broken glass.  Here I'm using needle nose pliers to carefully extricate the glass.  

Below, all the cracked glass has been removed.  I'm carefully pulling off the old copper foil and solder.  In a few spots the solder did not come off easily.  Rather than risk cracking nearby pieces,  I used a soldering iron to melt off the remaining old solder and foil.

 Now the border is cleared of old solder and foil.

One of my suppliers was able to locate the exact apples from the 1970's to do the repair.  Its good to have connections .. These are not readily available.  Here I placed the apple in for size.  Its a perfect fit.

Below I'm lining the border with new copper foil.  I used a combination of 7/32" and 1/4" to assure a good bond.

Another view of the interior of the border with the new copper foil.

Below, I'm pressing the solder onto the edge of the apple using a "fid".  Pressing the foil flat onto the glass prevents flux and other liquids from working under the foil and interfering with its adhesive properties.

I'm holding the apple in place from the back by using blue painter's tape.  Since there are gaps around the apple, the tape helps to confine the solder.  Before starting to solder the apple in place, I repositioned the lamp so that the apple is facing up, level with the floor, so that the solder will flow evenly.

Here's a view of the inside of the bowl of the lamp which shows the interior of the apple soldered.

After the soldered area has been cleaned off, black patina is applied with a craft brush as shown.  The patina instantly turns the solder black.  After waiting a few moments, the excess is washed off.  I use "Kwik Clean Flux Cleaner".  I repeated this process with all four cracked apples.

After all of the apples have been replaced and cleaned, the next step is to liberally apply Clarity Stained Glass Finishing Compound to the lamp.  This protects the solder and gives the glass a nice shine.

And here is the finished lamp.  It is ready to be picked up.  I look forward to seeing Carol's reaction!  Thank you Carol for bringing me your family lamp .. May it bring you many more years of enjoyment!

To see repairs to another fruit lamp, please click here.


Please visit my website to see my custom windows and repairs (click here).  And if you are on FaceBook, become a fan and I'll keep you up to date on all my stained glass projects.  Call me any time at 201-600-1616 or email with your questions. Thanks!

Mirrored Wall Hanging Repair

I'm a bit behind on my blog posts.  Three weeks ago, I repaired this 30-year-old fine art mirrored wall hanging for a lovely couple who used it for treats for the grandchildren.  Here are a few photos of the process:  (Click on any photo to enlarge .. Click on the "X" in upper right to return to post).

Here's a side view of this lovely piece.  If you look carefully (or click to enlarge photo), you'll see that the bowl has broken away from the glass mirror.

Here's another view of the separation which occurred.

And below is the view from the back.

 Below, I've replaced the copper foil around the outer edge and taped the bowl to the mirror to temporarily close the gap to prepare for soldering.

 Below, I've removed the old foil and applied new foil to the back edge of the piece.  Here I'm pressing the foil onto the glass using a flexible plastic wand or "fid".

 I used several, side-by-side layers of 7/32" copper foil on the back, just as the original artist did when the piece was created.  Here I'm applying liquid flux to prepare for soldering.

 Below, the copper foil has been soldered.  I removed a thick patch of foil from the spot where the supporting back wire attaches to the bottom edge.  I re-soldered it to the body so that the mirror will lay flat against the wall, as intended.

Since the solder is silver, I applied Clarity Stained Glass Finishing Compound to the newly soldered areas, as well as to all the areas of stained glass.  It protects the solder from oxidizing and gives the glass a nice shine.

And here is the repaired piece.  Thank you Faye and Harvey for bringing your lovely piece to me for repair!

Please visit my website to see my custom windows and repairs (click here).  And if you are on FaceBook, become a fan and I'll keep you up to date on all my stained glass projects.  Call me any time at 201-600-1616 or email with your questions. Thanks!

Oval window with Bevels and Gems - Installation

This weekend, Eric installed the beautiful oval bathroom window.  Take a look!  (Click on any photo to enlarge, then click the "X" in upper right to return to post).

You'll recall that I built this window directly on top of the template that Eric made on our site visit.  The window fit perfectly.  Here Eric is inserting small metal prongs to hold the window in place.  He had already applied black patina to them so they are barely visible in front of the lead came frame.

 And in goes another metal clip to secure it further.

And here is the finished window.  The amber and purple glass really pops!  The sandblasted bevels were a great decision and they make this one-of-a-kind window that much more unique. (Thank you again to Peter of Armour Air in Fairview, NJ for the wonderful sandblasting job).

And here's another photo of the finished window, another labor of love.  I always feel a little tinge when we walk away from our work.  But I love what I do.  I greatly appreciate my husband's assistance in making it happen.

I wish I had recorded my customer Michelle's reaction!  She was beyond thrilled.  Her favorite expression throughout our collaboration on the window was, "Do your magic!".  Thank you Michelle for the opportunity .. You were a joy to work with!

Next up .. Repairing a mirrored wall hanging, then repairing a lamp, then another custom window commission.  But call any time, I'm always happy to discuss your project.  Thanks!

Please visit my website to see my custom windows and repairs (click here).  And if you are on FaceBook, become a fan and I'll keep you up to date on all my stained glass projects.  Call me any time at 201-600-1616 or email with your questions. Thanks!

Oval Window with Bevels and Gems - Soldering, Framing and Patina

Here are the final steps in creating this custom oval window.  We are so thrilled with how it looks and we hope our customer is equally pleased!  Here's the process of soldering, framing and applying patina to the window:  (Click on any photo to enlarge, then click "X" in upper right of your screen to return to blog).

Safety first.  Here is the 3M breathing mask I wear whenever I solder.  Its surprisingly comfortable. The model number is clearly noted on the right. 

While the window is still thumb-tacked in place, I apply liquid flux to the joints, then add solder.  This is called tack soldering and is a preliminary step to prepare for the actual soldering.  I work on only one side at a time. Until the frame is in place, the window will not be strong enough to withstand being flipped over.

Tack soldering.

After all steps involving chemicals, I spray the entire window with Kwik-Clean and towel it dry.

And here's the window, soldered on the front side.

Next, I'm applying Novacan Black Patina to all the solder lines with a metal acid brush. This chemical works instantly.  I always let it set for 10-15 minutes before washing off.

Here's the window after black patina is applied.

We used a product well known to the leaded glass world for the framing.  This is flexible lead "U-came" which comes as long, straight lengths or coiled.  We purchased enough coiled U-came to encircle the oval.  Note that the interior of the came is open.  The outer border of the glass fits inside that opening.

My husband Eric does all of our framing.  Here, he slid the template back beneath the window to re-establish the lines of the outer border.  Using push pins, he's encircled the oval with the lead U-came.  He also soldered the frame to the lead lines on the front of the window.

 Again, applying patina to the lead U-came.  I always work out of a bottle cap to eliminate the risk of contaminating the whole bottle.

Since the window is now framed, it is noticeably stronger.  I carefully turned it over and did the same process as on the front with the exception of the tack soldering.  Below, I'm applying liquid flux to prepare for soldering.  After the flux and solder is washed off and dried with a towel, I applied black patina. As a final step, I applied Clarity brand Stained Glass Conditioner to both sides.  This product is a light carnauba wax which has a bit of pumice in it.  It brings out the shine and protects the patina.  No further maintenance will be required, except for an occasional dusting.

And here it is!  This lovely 19" x 31" oval will soon be installed in its newly renovated bathroom  Stay tuned for one more post when we install it!

One more .. The computer rendition (left)  and the actual window (right):

Please visit my website to see my custom windows and repairs (click here).  And if you are on FaceBook, become a fan and I'll keep you up to date on all my stained glass projects.  Call me any time at 201-600-1616 or email with your questions. Thanks!