Dining Room Stained Glass Windows

This project is for the creation of two matching stained glass windows to serve as the focal points for my customer's dining room.  Here is one of the windows.  Notice that the glass is heavily textured.  Ideally, we install windows over clear glass.  Since they were unable to find a contractor to change the glass, we went with opalescent glass which is less transparent.  It worked out beautifully.  Here's the process ..

Here is one of the windows with the texture clearly visible.

For every custom window, we collaborate to come up with a design.  This was the winner, one of Ed Sibbet's, a well-published pattern designer.  Next I create several full color renditions of the design, using the color palette chosen by my customer.  Here are a few of the options I presented.

This one was the winner!

 Here's the dining room showing both windows.

The palette of glass to be used on the project.

The pattern making process.  The bottom layer is Manila folders, the middle layer is carbon paper, and the top layer is the "cartoon" or printed pattern.  I trace all of the numbers and lines onto the folders, as well as the colors.

I use regular scissors to cut the outer border.  Then I use specialized double-bladed pattern shears to separate the pieces. These leave a small area which will be taken up later by the copper foil.

As pattern pieces are cut, I separate them by color and organize them into recycled junk mail envelopes.

Here's the cartoon, laying flat on my Homasote work surface.  Homasote is a sound-proofing building material which accepts pushpins and has just the right amount of "give" for glass cutting.  Notice that there is a "fence" or "jig" around the border.  These aluminum strips will stay in place throughout the process.  They prevent the glass from shifting as I work.

Each pattern piece gets traced onto a piece of glass, then cut out.

More pieces ready for cutting.

In some cases, the curves are too deep to safely cut by hand.  That's when I use my wet ring saw as shown.

Moving onto the clear glass .. Several pieces traced and ready for cutting.

More clear ready.  The purple tool is an oil-filled pistol grip glass cutter which is my primary hand cutting implement.

Now I'm cutting the light amber pieces.  I'm creating both windows simultaneously, cutting all of one color at one time.

Here's my ring saw next to my grinder with several more amber pieces.

One of the center medium amber pieces half cut.  Love the colors in this glass.

Using a circle cutter for the round red pieces.

Here's window "A" with all the glass cut ..

And here's window "B" with all the glass cut.

After all the glass is cut, its always necessary to trim the pieces for a proper fit.  Here I'm placing one of the pieces in place after trimming it.

Applying the 7/32" adhesive copper foil to the center edge of each piece of glass.

Using a "fid" or flat plastic wand to burnish the foil onto the glass.

More foiling. You can see in the background that nearly all of the window has now been foiled.

Before I foil the "signature piece", I use an electric engraver to etch my name, month and year into the glass.

The next steps are to apply liquid flux to the foil.  Then I "tack solder" the glass together at the junctions and randomly throughout the window.  Once the pieces are locked, I remove the aluminum "fence" and slide out the "cartoon".  I did this for both windows.

Then I solder the front of each window.  Then my husband Eric custom-cuts the zinc frame for each window.

I put the aluminum frame back on, to secure the new frame.  Then I solder it in place at the corners and at the lead lines, as shown.

Here's one of the hanging hooks, soldered in place.

Now I'm applying liquid black patina to the solder.  After its allowed to set, I wash it off with a neutralizing spray.

Here's one of the two windows which has just been patina-ed.  After the patina is dry, I apply stained glass finishing compound which is a light wax.

Here is one of the windows, completed ..

And here is the other one!

And here are both together

And here they are, in the dining room, after Eric installed them.

Thank you Pam and Phil .. It was a pleasure meeting you and creating these beauties for your room.  May you and your family enjoy them for years to come!

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Oops, computer issues .. Stay tuned

Apparently, the new version of my photo software (which shall remain nameless), is a lot easier to screw up than it is to use.  Therefore, I'm not able to post until next week, after yet another tech person comes to take a look.

Up next .. A beautiful pair of dining room windows ..

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Stained Glass Autumn Leaf Sun Catchers

Here are some sun catchers I made a while back as a gift.  Just thought I'd post them today, after seeing the leaves in full color in Pennsylvania Delaware Valley region.  Quick, simple designs.

I found a few designs through Google.  Then I traced them onto a Manila folder, using carbon paper.

I used a variety of autumnal colored glass, all Cathedral (see through), some with textures for interest. Here all the glass has been cut.  I also ground the edges of the glass.

Applying adhesive silver back copper foil to the edges of each piece of glass.  Copper foil comes with the insides in three colors: copper, black and silver.  The inside of the foil should always match the color of the patina.  Since these leaves will be left silver, I'm using silver back foil.

Another view of the foiling process.

I've pinned the pieces of glass into the Homasote work surface to prevent them from shifting as I work.  Now I'm applying liquid flux to the copper foil.

I've soldered the fronts of the leaves and I've created a hook for each leaf.  I've done this by wrapping a length of wire around a metal brush.  The hooks can be seen in the center of the photo.

Now I've soldered on all the hooks and they're ready for hanging.

And here they are, ready for Fall and ready for the window.  I recommend using Command brand 1/2 lb hooks which are made specifically for adhering to glass.  They are much safer and long lasting for sun catchers than any of the suction cup holders.

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Octagonal Stained Glass Lamp Fixture Repair

I'm always amazed at all the different objects which can be made with stained glass.  Here's another unusual one which I recently repaired.  It's a special fixture which my customer purchased in Cape Cod over 40 years ago.  He added the light fixture to the top.  He had over 5 pounds of pea gravel in the base, with a small Malaysian doll standing in the gravel.  It hung over his kitchen table all those years until he noticed the bottom was detaching from the top.  That's when he brought it to me for repair.
 
 Here's a "before photo.  Notice that the top part of the barrel is not copper foil construction.  Its assembled with brass channel which is usually not repair-able.  But the detached part is, in fact, copper foil, so I was able to bring it back for him. The bottom of the barrel is clear glass.  Its hard to tell, but there are two small open areas at the top portion, just large enough to fit my hand inside.

Here are the five pounds of pea gravel which were in the bottom.

After I removed all the old copper foil and solder, I used a hand file to grind the edges of the glass.  This helps the copper foil to adhere better.

Here I’m applying new copper foil to the edges.

Moving on to the bottom portion, I’m taking off the old foil and solder.

I’m using tweezers to pull out as much of the old foil as I can.

Now I’ve lined the inside of the bottom with new copper foil.  I also soldered in a length of wire on top of the foil, to make the piece sturdier.

Now I’m soldering the inside of the bottom piece.

I’m using a wider copper foil on the bottom, attaching it to the sides as I go.

Then I added flat, braided reinforcement wire to strengthen the sides

After I soldered it, I turned it over and added new copper foil to the outer edges.

 I lined up the corners and taped the top to the bottom.

I soldered the top to the bottom, inside and out.  Here I’m working inside.  I’m applying flux to a length of flat braided wire which I soldered along 4 seams for strength and stability.

After all the reinforcement is in place, and everything is soldered, I’m applying black patina to the solder using a cotton ball.  This chemical instantly turns the solder black.  After this process, I use a spray cleaner to remove all traces of the chemicals inside the fixture.

And here it is, finished and ready to go!  

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!

Boxy Stained Glass Fixture Repair

Not all repairs are complicated and lengthy.  Here is an example of a one-piece replacement that got a contractor out of hot water.  One of his crew accidentally broke a customer's lighting fixture.  Since he was under the gun, I was able to repair this for him quickly.  Here's the process ..


This is a modern hanging lamp fixture.  The bottom is facing up.  The center of the lamp where it's open is the part that cracked.

The glass was already gone by the time it came to me, so that saved one step.  Here I'm tugging up the old fol and solder to prepare the surface for the replacement glass.

When glass is cut without being grinded, its sharp and shiny.  Here I'm using a hand file to sand down the glass.  This makes it safer to handle as I work, and it also helps the copper foil to adhere better.

Now I'm applying new copper foil in the same width as was used originally.

 Here I'm outlining the piece of replacement glass.

 

Grinding ..

The replacement glass is in place and new copper foil is added all around.  To assure the strength of this repair, I also added strips of flat, braided reinforcement braid underneath.  It connects in several places to the body of the lamp and can't be seen.

Soldering the foil after applying liquid flux.  After this step, the area receives a thorough cleaning.

Applying black patina to the silver solder, followed by another cleaning.  After the area is dry, I applied stained glass finishing compound.  This is a light wax which protects the patina and gives a nice shine.

And here's the repaired lamp.  My thanks to Joe for bringing this lamp to me for repair.

For more information on my other projects, please click here to visit my website.

If you're on FaceBook, please click here to "like" my BoehmStained Glass Studio page to keep up with all the latest projects.  Thank you!